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How to give a picture a cyan/blue/yellow color


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053timo

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Hey guys,

I found this picture and I really love it! I tried to make the same kind of photo but.... it doesn't work.

It's this picture Im talking about:
tlz3.jpg

And this is what I made out of it.... a shame XD
p3di.jpg

I changed the color with Levels and than I changed the opacity a bit.

Can someone please give me advise how I can make a picture like the first one? Thanks!!!
 
There are four layers there. one looks to be a normal color next layer yellow, pink, blue. opacities been played with along with positioning.you can do it because you did it. I don't understand your question. I would certainly hope that your not advertising that bimbo.
 
Hi Sam -

Great call. The OP's example image looks a lot like the images in the article you cited.

However, I'm curious about how this technique got the name "Harris Shutter Effect". AFAIK, the three exposure method to produce color pix was 1st suggested in 1855 by the physicist James Clerk Maxwell (best known for "Maxwell's equations" - ie, the fundamentals of all modern electronics): http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Color_photography

This was well before the founding of Kodak, Harris' employer.

Sliding and other types of multiple exposure backs to make three color separations were in active development in the 1890's (by several individuals), and they became reliable enough to be used even in remote locations in this very famous series of photos around 1911: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/File:Rgb-compose-Alim_Khan.jpg

I tried to look up the history of the name "Harris Shutter", but couldn't find any dates associated with it's development under Harris' name. I wonder if Harris was a *very* early employee of Kodak or did he come later and his name stuck.

Sam, by any bizarre chance, do you happen to know anything more about the history of this?

Best regards,

Tom
 
Sorry Tom, I've always known the technique as the Harris Shutter. Like you, I did a little research and found no specific history on Harris or how his name was attached to the effect. Not much help here.

This effect has intrigued me since you and I encountered it here: http://www.photoshopgurus.com/forum/photoshop-newbies/46585-how-do.html

I have also played with a slightly different technique by using the RGB Channels under the advanced blending options of a layer style.

I first found a suitable photo. I removed it's background and duplicated it three times. I named them RED, GREEN, and BLUE. I also added a white background layer beneath them.

Screen Shot 2013-12-16 at 12.58.44 PM.png

I then opened a layer style for each one and turned off two of the RGB colors that corresponded with the layers color name.
For instance with the blue layer highlighted, I turned off the red and green in the Advanced Blending Options.

Screen Shot 2013-12-16 at 12.55.25 PM.png

Do the same for the other two layers.
I then added a 0.7 Gaussian Blur to each layer and lowered each layers opacity to 70%.
I then used the Move Tool to move each of the red green and blue layers.

Screen Shot 2013-12-16 at 12.58.27 PM.png

You could tweak each color to your liking and change modes as well.
It's just a matter of experimentation.
 
Last edited:
Thanks scarmack.
Both the technique I described as well as the one Chris described are used in making the Anaglyph Effect that can be viewed with 3D glasses.

Good luck 053timo, hope it works for you! One thing I learned about copying and pasting channels is........you have to have a colored background to paste a copied channel into a new document! If you have a transparent document, it will just copy a selection only.
 
Very nice approach, Sam! In all the time I've worked with PS, I can probably count the number of times I've used the "channels" checkboxes (in Adv. Layer Blending) on the fingers of one hand, so I hardly ever think of them. Your approach to getting the individual channels on separate layers is much more direct and easy to modify compared to the usual approach. Nice!

T

PS - BTW, did you notice that in the tutorial you mentioned early in the thread, the guy played with not only with layer opacity, but also hue/sat and brightness/contrast, as well. I thought those tweaks to the individual layers really helped the look of his example.
 
Yes, I did notice. And like you, I liked the end results much better in the adjusted version. I have a feeling that the Miley example the OP provided was tweaked in the opposite direction.

I felt like the last approach I mentioned, or the one Chris mentions, was a a better way than the Harris Shutter. There still may be an easier way by just using a Hue & Sat layer adjustment and colorizing three duplicates.
 
"...There still may be an easier way by just using a Hue & Sat layer adjustment and colorizing three duplicates..."

I dunno, Sam. I think the realism will go way down with that approach. To see it, just imagine it's a photo of an object or surface with different areas on the surface illuminated by three partially overlapping colored spotlights: One red, one green, one blue. In the Harris Shutter approach, only one of the illuminated sections in each of the three layers. In contrast, in any method based on 3 different colorizations of a single B&W image, all three areas will appear on all three layers, so you wouldn't get the color variation from point to point.

T
 
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