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Help w/ prints


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Hey everyone, first off, I wanted to say this place seems awesome. Browsed for quite some time and have got many tips off of here. Thanks for the experts that contribute.

I am kind of new to PS. Been using it for about two years and am completely self-taught. One thing I have never tried is printing large images from a PSed pic. I have a 20x16 frame that I wanted to make a collage for. Now my question is, when I create a document in PS for this, what size should I create it as?? I didn't know if I could do a standard page (8.5 x 11 I think) and just ask Walgreen's or wherever to blow it up or if that would make it look bad. Should I just make a 20 x 16 canvas?

I have tried and looked numerous places for this answer and have came up empty which is why I am now posting instead of my usual lurking.

Thanks for the info anyone may have in order to help resolve this inquiry!!
 
if going to print always try to have the image resolution at 300 ppi or better
 
Keep the document 20x16, you never want to 'blow up' a picture. All the hard work you put into your project to make it perfect will not be noticed if you blow it up especially seeing as how those dimensions arent proportionally the same, so you will get either a stretched or cut-off result.

I would add 1/4" to each side tho for bleed.

Since you mentioned wallgreens for printing, you will want your document to be in CMYK. CMYK is what most commercial printers are using, however there are other places (like my college) that is already set up for photoshop printing in RGB. Sidenote: my college has the dopest printers out right now. its incredible how great they come out, but what do you expect for $3 a sheet lol.

Document should be 300 dpi also.

Everything i mentioned is set up in the box you see when you start a new document, btw.
 
a collage of small prints ?
or... a print of a collage you created in PS ?

being a customer printer, I would hope you look for someone better than Walgreens...

print quality is more about the printer used... than the file you use...
 
Awesome info everyone. iDad, I generally keep my ppi a little lower than 300 so that is good info and thanks BSkyy for getting in depth and the CKYM info also. I try to use that when printing but just wanted to make sure it would yield the best results. It looked like it did prior but obviously w/ a print this big, smaller things will get noticed more.

Smalltrees, I mentioned Wallgreen's just b/c I'm planning on getting it done at a chain place like that as I don't have access to a printer that does stuff that well. Where would you suggest? Kinkos or something along those lines? I'm pretty naive to this it's just an idea I had to give to the lady for an anniversary gift. She loves this type of stuff so I figured it'd be a great thing for her. If there's a place out there that'll do the best job that's a chain spot, any info would be appreciated.

Also Smalltrees, I'm editing this b/c I forgot to explain what I'm doing. I'm gonna take the dimensions of the frame, cut it in half vertically so I have one large pic one side and then cut the other half horizontally so I have two smaller pics on the other side. A few little details in between each pic will be used. I hope that answered your question.

Thanks again guys.
 
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Definition: To reproduce full-color photographic images, typical printing presses use 4 colors of ink. The four inks are placed on the paper in layers of dots that combine to create the illusion of many more colors. CMYK refers to the 4 ink colors used by the printing press -- the the subtractive primaries plus black.

CMYK - Defining CMYK 4-Color Process Printing
 
Pardon me for being confused now haha but it seems as if you're telling me to use RGB but the links you posted are in fact telling me differently. Could you potentially clarify why it is I should use RGB as opposed to CMYK?

Thank you.
 
Color Spaces...

when working on your images use RGB, it is bigger color-space than sRGB...
or... better yet use ProPhoto RGB... as it is larger yet...
always start with the best possible color...

the printer... will convert to the correct color-space it uses... ( the machine/software...)
the printer's software will convert to it's own tolerances...
your conversion may not be as accurate for that printer...

as far as a chain-store for printing...
I would at least go to a camera store, for printing...
at least they will/might have some photo/printing knowledge... and will be more concerned about quality...
 
Work with your images in RGB mode not CMYK as already discussed. But, there is no RGB color space, sRGB is a color space which is set in Edit-Color Settings in the RGB dropdown.

P.S. your camera should also be set to sRGB if it gives you the option.
 
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Mookie:
Walgreen's, or any other print source should be able to print the image any size you want. My approach, however, is to size it to my desired output, mainly because some cropping might be necessary (i.e. the digital image size might not be in the 4x5 aspect ratio you want to print at. The biggest issue here is resolution. It is normally recommended a print should be sized at 300 pixels/inch based upon the output size. When you get up to 16 x 20, that may become problematic, but it is best to come as close as possible.
 
sorry... I assumed everyone would know that RGB... was... Adobe RGB 1998... since it is the Industry standard...
if your camera has RGB... ( Adobe RGB 1998) I suggest to use that space, as it is larger than sRGB...

can you explain why you want to capture "less" color info... by using sRGB...
 
Unless there are specific colors that sRGB is not giving you such as neons, there is no real advantage to Adobe RGB and there can be disadvantages. Most people don't need the extra wide gamut and using Adobe RGB can actually sacrifice some of the more subtle tonalities that usually occur in skin tones. A lot of people find that their prints tend towards reddish with Adobe RGB.

You may use it and never notice a difference. But generally speaking unless you have a specific need for the larger gamut colors, most people should stick with sRGB. But it's certainly up to you.

Here's a link: http://www.kenrockwell.com/tech/adobe-rgb.htm

Here is another link that explains it better than I can:

About wide vs. small gamuts, 8 vs. 16-bit &sRGB vs. Adobe'98: Canon EOS 7D / 60D - 10D Forum: Digital Photography Review

If you don't feel like doing all the reading, here is the summation:

Ah well, 16-bit is “better” than 8-bit then, but wide gamut is not “better” than small gamut, although the words wide and small for many would indicate so. It really depends. On the destination target, on the software available, on your skills and knowledge, on your input device/monitor/output devices level of quality, calibration and exactness, and on a few physical truths like bandwidth, memory, processor and hard disk size and quality. In many cases it is actually an advantage to be working in a “not-so-wide” gamut like sRGB. You get more subtle transitions at the cost of some “neons”, and you will be much less surprised or disappointed when transferring your images to the web, the printer, the lab, the clients or your friends.
 
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nice info thanks Hawkeye!
 
If you're still not convinced: Photographic color spaces – sRGB vs Adobe RGB

Should you use sRGB or aRGB?

Sorry, no simple yes/no response here but I will give a broad sweeping generalization: Only 1% of people who take photos will ever print their photos on a device that will reproduce the aRGB gamut of colors – in other words – sRGB is not just OK, but is preferred for 99% of the photos taken.

sRGB is the only choice for web presentations. sRGB is the standard - aRGB is not an option. Photos that are posted on the web are assumed to be in the sRGB color space and browsers display them that way. If you try to view a photo in the aRGB color space on a web browser its colors will appear washed out. The same is true for email programs (but not email attachements). Conversions can be made from aRGB to sRGB (at a loss in quality) if you need to post an aRGB based photo on the web.

If your camera doesn’t give you a choice of which color space to use, as is the case with almost all point-and-shoot cameras, then you can count on sRGB being the default. If you use Wal-Mart, your local drug store, K-mart, Costco, Wolfe Camera, etc for printing your photos – sRGB is for you – their printers expect and treat all submittals as using the sRGB color space. End of discussion unless these descriptions don’t fit you.
 
maybe... you missed the last two paragraphs...

If you shoot RAW and convert to 16 bit TIFF, skipping JPEG all the way, then, if you have your editing suite properly profiled, go ahead and use aRGB. You most likely know what you are doing and even if you donít really benefit from using aRGB at least you will not be hurt by using it. Just remember to convert to sRGB for anything that will be displayed on the web or shared via email. Also always verify what color space is expected when sending out files for printing.

There are occasions when aRGB really is the best choice. There is a certain percentage of photographic scenes that contain colors outside the range of the sRGB color space. If you are a professional photographer using a fine art printer that is capable of reproducing these colors and have your computer system properly setup to work with color profiles and you are very experienced with PhotoShop and have a very critical eye for color, then aRGB is likely right for you. Also aRGB is highly recommended when it is required by whoever has contracted for your professional photography services. After all, the art director is always right!


I cannot control the colors on the web... or... the viewers uncalibrated monitors...
I do not care how it looks on the web... or... in someone's email...
my final product is the print that hangs on their wall...

if... I fall into that 1%... then that is fine...
I only shoot RAW, because I want that extra control, understand that control...
as a custom printer of 30+ years... I seek more control than the average photographer...

capture as much data as possible... then process it away with intent and knowledge...
or... you can shoot jpgs... and let the camera do all the work for you...

shop for a high-end monitor... their "goal" is to reach Adobe RGB 1998...
they must have some reason to do this...
 
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