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Seeking some Christmas Help


Tom Mann

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Russ, in case anyone (including yourself) wants a version of the original photo you posted with the pattern minimized, here's what I got using the FFT approach. I'm super busy right now and for the next couple of days, but if you want, I'll be happy to describe how I got this result -just ping me in a few days.

Tom M

Nan_&_Grandad_Photo-tjm01-acr0-ps04b_crop_for_gif_demo.gif
 

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ALB68

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WOW, that is super crisp, that’s incredible
OK. You seemingly care for that one more than my work, so maybe Mr Mann will take over and finish up for you. Good luck and Merry Xmas.
 

RussH

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wo wo wo, I didnt mean to make offense here. I'm not going to not compliment someone having taken their own time to help me. Both pieces of work are amazing, and I like them both. Didnt mean to make it sound like I was saying one is better than the other, they are both far better then I could have achieved
 

ALB68

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wo wo wo, I didnt mean to make offense here. I'm not going to not compliment someone having taken their own time to help me. Both pieces of work are amazing, and I like them both. Didnt mean to make it sound like I was saying one is better than the other, they are both far better then I could have achieved
I'm just saying that since Tom Mann has posted this, and he apparently doesn't "have the time" to finish it for you, it gives you an excellent place to do the completion on your own since you have Photoshop and some knowledge of it. If he didn't have time to give you a completed picture then why post this at all, except to demonstrate he can do it. As he says"I couldn't resist". He says "maybe someone else can take it from here", does that mean download his work and go from there, I think not (at least not me). Mine here is only a screen shot, low resolution, and I doubt would print very well on a printer that is looking for 300ppi. I have sized it to the 64mm size you requested and have resampled it and enlarged it at 300ppi so it should print properly. If you would like that file, I'll send you a drop box link where you can download it.
 

RussH

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Ive been taking notes on the things that have been metnoned and suggested on this, and decided to take the texture removed image Tom posted and see if I could pick up some of it myself (with the help of move youtube vid's)

This is what I have been working on the last couple of hours. Not sure is this is good or not

Nan & Grandad.jpg
 

ALB68

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Ive been taking notes on the things that have been metnoned and suggested on this, and decided to take the texture removed image Tom posted and see if I could pick up some of it myself (with the help of move youtube vid's)

This is what I have been working on the last couple of hours. Not sure is this is good or not

View attachment 51583
Russ,
You did good. However, I wish what you worked from had been posted before 6am this morning. It would have saved me a couple of hours of work last night, but since this is your edit now, you will probably be more pleased with it since you did a lot of it. As I previously stated, TM's post would be a good starting place for you and it proved to be that. Happy Holidays.
 

RussH

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Hi ALB68,

I'd like to see your's if you have spent a lot of time on it, cause I doubt mine is at a professional standard and it be good to choose the better one
 

ALB68

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Hi ALB68,

I'd like to see your's if you have spent a lot of time on it, cause I doubt mine is at a professional standard and it be good to choose the better one
I'll finish it up and send you a link so you can d/l the PSD. Are you sure 64MM is the size. That's pretty small.
 

Tom Mann

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I'm just saying that since Tom Mann has posted this, and he apparently doesn't "have the time" to finish it for you ... He says "maybe someone else can take it from here", does that mean download his work and go from there, I think not (at least not me). ...
I truly didn't have the time to complete this because (a) I am under a deadline to complete the review of six 50-70 page senior design final reports, and (b) I am under a separate deadline as the official photographer for our fire and rescue service to shoot and process a holiday image for them. The shoot was last night. It involved a complicated lighting arrangement that took hours to set up (and then stand around in the cold, waiting for the equipment to arrive), involved dozens of separate photos that had to be composited together, and now is going to involve hours more of post processing. I assure you that the quotes you added around the phrase "have the time" were not called for.

Also, when I said, "... maybe someone else can take it from here ...", yes, what I said was precisely my intent. No more, no less: I wanted to quickly demonstrate the sort of improvement one could get by starting with a de-textured version, throw out some ideas for colors, as well as providing a possible starting point for anyone who could help the OP on a shorter time scale than I could. In fact, I was delighted to see that is exactly what happened, with both the OP and ChrisD jumping in with some *very* nice work.

Probably an FFT filter or action for Photoshop Chris
Yup, I did use a FFT-based approach. Certainly no actions, tho. IMHO, the automated FFT approaches, be they PS actions, or software embedded in scanners to de-screen scans of half-tone prints never come close to what one can get by a manual process. Unfortunately, it's not obvious, even with all the tutorials on the web on this topic, just how to get the most out of an FFT approach. Here is the main technique that differentiates my work with FFTs from others.

Most FFT tutorials suggest you completely black out the bright crosses in the 2D amplitude spectrum. Often, this is displayed as the red channel in some popular implementations of the FFT as a PS plugin. While a complete blackening out of the crosses does indeed reduce the unwanted texture, unfortunately, doing so, at minimum, produces it's own type of texture, a ringing artifact in the vicinity of each of the little texture elements. Even worse, if you black out too much area in this channel, especially if you black out regions along the two axes, you can easily wind up with major shifts in brightness and both local and global contrast, ie, a mess.

A much better technique is to tone down each of the bright crosses to the point where they blend into their surroundings - not brighter, not darker. One can do this by either painting over these crosses with a mid-gray brush, or by using the spot healing brush. It is also quite important not to use a simple circular brush large enough to take out each cross in one mouse click, but rather, to use a smaller diameter brush / spot healing tool, and restrict your touch-up work to two narrow intersecting lines that make up each cross. Below is a before-after comparison using this technique on the Russ' image.

HTH,

Tom M
 

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RussH

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Just been playing around with it a little more.

Would you call it a day with it as it is, or is there a few other tools / processes wortth applying?

I notice will a little zoom on area like the face, that the skin tone is patchy / pixulated, is this something that can be easily improved, or do you start making it look unrealistic / lifelike?

Nan & Grandad.jpg
 

ALB68

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After trying a few things with this and considering your progress with it, I decided to give it a painterly look. I do not have the filter for removal of the texture so I decided on this look. Maybe you can use it, maybe not. Anyway, her it is.
Nan & Grandad Photo 2.png
 

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Steve

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Tom Mann said:
Yup, I did use a FFT-based approach. Certainly no actions, tho. IMHO, the automated FFT approaches, be they PS actions, or software embedded in scanners to de-screen scans of half-tone prints never come close to what one can get by a manual process.
Me either but an action would only run FFT and pause, to allow you to manually adjust the channel, then finish up the requited steps by restarting the action.
You're still manually processing it.
 

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